“Maybe it’s much too early in the game
Ah, but I thought I’d ask you just the same
What are you doing New Year’s, New Year’s Eve?”–Frank Loesser
It’s not too early at all to be asking since we are only a couple of days away. But when Frank Loesser wrote this song in 1947, presumably it was meant to be sung earlier in the year. But who makes plans so far in advance these days? And, in fact, this year you may be planning to stay home to enjoy a lovely dinner, a nice bottle of bubbly and watching the ball drop from a cozy living room. There are also few things more comforting on a chilly and possibly raining night than the smell of a cake baking in the oven, perhaps while listening to Ella Fitzgerald.
If you are thinking of making the beautiful Pear Almond Cake pictured on the cover of our Winter issue, I have some extra tips for you from our recipe tester, Nancy Oster, and the author, Pascale Beale.
When testing the recipe, Nancy pointed out that this recipe can be “disconcerting to the experienced American baker because it breaks our cake-making rules by melting the butter and dissolving the sugar rather than creaming them together.”
I found that I really liked this technique because I didn’t have to plan ahead to bring my butter to room temperature.
When I asked Pascale about the type of pan she uses for this cake, she said: “I always used to make this in round tins, but when I got the square one, I really liked the triangular shapes it made, so I make it in the square one now. Either one will do.”
She’s right, it’s a very flexible recipe. I made it in an 8.5-inch round pan, and although I had a little extra batter, I baked it in a small ramekin, and it was an extra little treat.
For those who want a larger cake, Pascale adds: “The recipe multiplies well. I have a 9 x 13 pan, and I use 1.5 times the recipe to make a large rectangular cake that works very well.”
It is a forgiving recipe in other ways, too. Although Pascale always uses unsalted butter, I only had salted butter when making it, and it was fine. There is no added salt in the recipe, so no fear of it tasting too salty. Pascale also tells me that the size you chop the pears can be varied from roughly half an inch to a little larger. And when whisking the egg whites, they can be stiff or soft, either will work just fine.
I hope you try it out this New Year’s Eve or anytime this winter.
Pear Almond Cake
I have been making quartre quart (a French pound cake) since I was a little girl. The recipe is a family favorite, and over the years, I have adapted it to incorporate many different fruits. From apricots to apples, bananas to chocolate, it is versatile and oh so good. This version highlights pears. The result is a pretty, moist cake. The almonds give a nice crunch to the topping and balance the soft sweetness of the pears. If there are leftovers, it’s pretty good with a cup of coffee for breakfast too!
Makes 8–10 servings
8 ounces unsalted butter (2 sticks)
8 ounces sugar (1 cup plus 2 tablespoons)
3–4 ripe pears, peeled and chopped into ½-inch pieces or slightly larger
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract or vanilla paste
8 ounces flour (1¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon)
1 teaspoon baking powder
4 eggs, separated
½ cup sliced almonds
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
Preheat oven to 400°.
Melt the butter in a saucepan placed over medium heat. Once the butter has melted, add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Add the pears and vanilla, stir to combine and cook for 2–3 minutes. Add the flour and baking powder, stir until completely absorbed by the mixture and then remove from the heat.
When this cake mixture has cooled to the touch, add in the egg yolks and stir together.
Whisk the egg whites in a separate bowl. I usually beat them to stiff peaks, but soft peaks work too. Then fold the whipped egg whites into the cake batter.
Line a 9-inch round or square cake tin with parchment paper. Pour the cake mixture into the cake tin and bake for 30 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. Set on a cooling rack.
Combine the sliced almonds and powdered sugar in a small bowl so that the almonds are completely coated in a fine layer of sugar. Place the cake onto a serving plate or cake stand. Sprinkle the almonds all over the top of the cake.
Note: The cake will keep for 2–3 days in a covered container. It is delicious served with a little crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream—or both.
–Pascale Beale
As for New Year’s Day, the tradition in my house is to make Hoppin’ John. I don’t follow a recipe but I remember years ago using a recipe on Epicurious as a starting point. It might have been this one.
I use fresh black-eyed peas since they are usually available at this time of year. And I like to use bacon or smoked pork belly, whichever I have on hand. And I always add greens—collard, mustard or chard. It’s a one-dish meal of pure comfort. This year when I make it, I should probably write it down.
In the meantime, try this Edible Piedmont recipe: An African Take on Hoppin’ John
Or read up on more of the history of the ingredients here: The Historic Problem With Hoppin' John by Robert Moss
Cheers and here’s to 2022!
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My beloved mom and stepdad passed away recently - they and I loved the Russian novel The Master and Margarita https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Master_and_Margarita in which the characters drink vodka along with peppered pineapple, so that became a tradition on our New Year's Eves. Along with caviar. After that we would make a bisque. This year I have beautiful langostino from Giovanni's so that I will make into a bisque. As for New Year's Day, planning to make a black-eye pea gumbo. I have some Andouille sausage for it.